DAY 32: NOV 6 OURENSE TO OSEIRA (32 KM) 43,401 STEPS

It was overcast and foggy as I left Ourense. It took almost 90 minutes to walk through the city and the suburbs by which time it had started to drizzle.

The trail splits in Ourense for about 25 kilometers. I chose the western route via Mandras although the routes are about the same length. This route has the more scenic views and there was less walking along busy highways. It also has what is reputed to be the steepest climb on all the Caminos. A one kilometer continuous 20 degree slope followed by a half kilometers at a less strenuous 12 degrees. Normally, the reward for the climb is the superb view from the top but on this drab day I could see absolutely nothing because of the thick fog.

 The view into the valley at about the halfway point of the climb.

Despite the drizzle and the fog  it was quite a pleasant walk with interesting scenery and camino artifacts along the way as can be seen from these photos.

Gnarly old oak trees

.

There were two goldfish in the basin

Stones worn smooth by millions of feet

An interesting Camino fountain

The entrance to the albergue at Cea

The bell tower in Cea

Stone is a plentiful building material

Another fountain near Silvaboa

My destination was the Monasterio de Oseira, an imposing and overwhelming structure with roots going back to the tenth century. The current buildings were rebuilt after a fire in 1552 and restored in the late twentieth century. This is what I saw as I came around a bend in the road. It was jaw dropping!

My guide book stated that pilgrims could stay at the monastery in luxurious cells with single beds and sitting rooms and that the monks also provided hot showers and meals. Unfortunately these facilities had been shut down for the season but I was offered a bed in a large hall with basic facilities: a bed with a mattress but no pillow, a wash basin but no shower, water but not heated and lastly once again I was alone. But it came with all the goodness in the world.

My home in the monastery

When I went to pay my five euro fee and get my credentials book stamped, Father Luis offered to give me a tour of the main building. How could I refuse! Unfortunately I was not allowed to take any photographs. This facility houses only 17 monks. I could just imagine what it was like 100 or more years ago.