DAY 19: OCT 24 SALAMANCA TO EL CUBO DE LA TIERRA DEL VINO (35 KM) 49,471 STEPS

I was happy to be on my way again, leaving on a cool morning just as the sun was rising. The weather conditions were ideal for walking but unfortunately most of the trail markers had been obliterated by the ongoing construction of the new four-lane highway paralleling the existing N630. This forced me to walk some 20 kilometers along the shoulder of this very busy highway. It was an unpleasant experience.

The citizens of the tiny village of Calzada de Valdunciel provided me with a bench and a collage of broken miliarios as I ate my solitary lunch.

I arrived at the albergue after eight hours of walking only to find it closed. There was a note on the door with a telephone number to call.

Great.  If only I had a phone.

So, I walked back to the main square, found a bar and a fellow called the number for me and shortly thereafter the albegue was open. You have to be resourceful on the Camino.

Later in the evening as I sat by the opening of the albergue writing my journal a small local dog came along and laid down beside me. After a while he got up and ambled off. It was nice to have some company.

I was alone in the albergue (14 beds) but at least there wasn't any competition for hot water.