In the delightful little village of Soutelo Verde, ripening ears of corn hanging from the balconies were a bright splash of colour in an otherwise drab day.
A few kilometers after Laza the track heads steeply uphill through gorse, heather and pines. There are breathtakingly spectacular views of the track looking back towards Laza.
Looking back towards Laza
Unfortunately it then started to rain, the ceiling dropped and the spectacular scenery promised in my guidebook was no longer visible. It rained continuously for the rest of the day.
There is a famous bar, Bar Rincon de Peregrinos, in Albergueria where the owner gives each peregrino a scallop shell upon which you put your name and any other information that you wish. There are thousands of shells covering every available space including the ceiling and walls. I was happy to sign one but more happy to get out of the rain and to have some coffee and hot food.
The owner of the bar
Shells everywhere!
I was surprised and pleased to see that Federico was at the albergue. He didn't speak much English but between his English and my limited Spanish we were able to converse. I managed to learn that he was from Bilbao and was employed by the Spanish coastguard.
A plethora of signs to welcome me to the albergue
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